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Q. I live in a 100 year old home with no insulation near Rochester, NY. I have two vastly different price quotes for insulation and air sealing the home (including sealing the rimjoists). The attic is used for storage and could be converted to living space as it has a great floor. This means that I am looking at insulating the underside of the roof as well as the gable ends. One contractor will NOT use closed cell foam because he says it will not handle the expansion and contraction without cracking. The other contractor will not use open cell foam because they say it does not really air seal the space. HELP! I am looking for a 3rd party to help me understand things.
-Wilson Jones, Avon, NY
A. Air sealing should not be confused with the limited air movement quality of insulation. You may be able to limit the air movement through the insulated areas but there will always be areas that air can travel through that will require sealing. Examples of this would be leaks between the sill plate and the foundation or between wall joists and window frames. All spray foams have the ability to act as an insulation and fill in small nooks and crannies for air sealing. I do recomend checking the R-values of the products before having them installed. The higher the R-value the more effective it will be in insulating your home. With spray foam you insulation you have 2 things to consider. "What is the R-value?" and "What is the space I am trying to fill?" Open-celled foam allows water vapor to travel through it more easily which cuts down on moisture in the walls. Where as Closed cell foam has a higher R-value so it will insulate better where space may be limited. So basically they both have their pros and cons and it is just a matter of your desired results for the product. If you would like a couple more oppinions and estimates from professionals in your area please call us at 888-326-0653 opt #1. We would be happy to assist you. Thank you, T. Tizon
 
Q. I bought a 20 year old home last year. In the winter I get huge ice buildup outside my front door so the icicles hang 5' down. I need the attic insulated (pull down stairs in garage). The kitchen cabinets were also leaking cold air in the winter. WHO DO I CALL? Do I just pick someone out of the phone book??
-Trudy Nash, Broadview Hts., OH
A. Heating cables can be installed for keeping your roof and gutters free of ice. As for the insulation there are many different types on the market. You may want to check and see what will suit your needs best. When you are shopping for insulation you can check the labels for the R-value. The higher the R-value the better it will work. I do recommend that you contact a local professional for these project. If you would like assistance in finding a local contractor we can help. Please call 888-326-0653 opt #1. Thank you, T. Tizon
 
Q. I had my attic insulated with cellulose about 3 years ago. They were supposed to insulate the walls also but they never did. after that, my home started to experience excessive condensation on the windows, moisture and mold. I have been told that the insulation was not properly installed and baffles were not put in. Could this be the cause of the condensation and mold problem inside my home?
-Andriy Smith, Abington, PA
A. Dear Andriy, Mold toxicity is a very serious situation. My first suggestion would be to bring a mold expert into your home to test for fusarium, Cladosporium and other, lesser known types of toxic mold. You can find resources on www.mold-help.org. Please make sure to NOT move your furniture, clothing or other possessions to a new location until you have accurate measurements of mold presence in your home; moving porous items (wood, upholstered furniture, books, photographs, clothing, etc.) to another location will simply bring the mold to a new nesting spot. As far as the ceiling work, of course I’d like to ask if there were any guarantees granted by the company that performed the work? My suggestion is to get in touch with that company and ask for written details (brand of cellulose product, extent of work completed, anything they can provide). Please keep me updated on your progress.
 
Q. What type of glass fiber insulation should I place in my kitchen walls [2"x6" and 2"x4" walls]? Looking at the R-19 and their specifications for thicker walls with diminished ratings for being compressed in 2x6 walls, I am thoroughly confused as to what is the best type to use for my particular home.
-Nicole, Sound Beach, New York
A. Hi Nicole, According to the U.S. Department of Energy's guidelines, you are in what's called "Zone 1." For this Zone, it is recommended that for 2"x4" walls, you use 3.5" R-15 OR 3.5" R-13 with insulated sheathing. For the 2"x6" walls, use either 5.5" R-21 OR 6.25 R-19. I hope this information is helpful!
 
Q. I would like to know if cellulose insulation is a fire hazard, and is it better to remove and replace it or cover it with rolled batts?
-Ira Essoe, Norco, California
A. Here is a great link to information regarding cellulose insulation as a fire hazard. http://www.houleinsulation.com/fire.html
 
 
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I live in a 100 year old home with no insulation near Rochester, NY. I have two vastly different price quotes for insulation and air sealing the home (including sealing the rimjoists). The attic is used for storage and could be converted to living space as it has a great floor. This means that I am looking at insulating the underside of the roof as well as the gable ends. One contractor will NOT use closed cell foam because he says it will not handle the expansion and contraction without cracking. The other contractor will not use open cell foam because they say it does not really air seal the space. HELP! I am looking for a 3rd party to help me understand things.
 
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